Location: This golf and spa resort overlooks the oldest golf course in the world – the aptly named Old Course, home to next year’s Open – along with some of St Andrews’ other top-class links courses. It’s a 10-minute drive from Leuchars train station (which has direct services from Kings Cross, York or Newcastle), an hour from Edinburgh airport, and within easy reach of the private airstrip at Dundee.
First impressions: The wide sweep of its stone-clad exterior might not win any beauty contests, but as soon as you walk into the hotel’s Old Course-facing rooms, it’s clear what draws guests to this resort. The views across this famous links course towards West Sands Beach and the waves crashing against Scotland’s east coast are a constant companion here, visible from many rooms and suites as well as from the fourth-floor Road Hole Restaurant and its neighbouring bar.
The facts: A major refurbishment has increased the inventory from 144 to 175. New rooms come with modern furnishings, Juliet balconies and marble bathrooms with a triple-head shower. A penthouse has been added, featuring a freestanding bath in the bedroom and a huge balcony with a telescope and firepit, plus a lift and the option to interconnect with the next-door Eden Suite. The conservatory has been extended and serves a revamped afternoon tea menu, wedding and events space the Hall of Champions has been expanded and new 80-cover restaurant the Swilcan Loft will open shortly to highlight new-world cuisine with an outdoor terrace offering standout views. Other highlights include the aforementioned Road Hole Restaurant and its array of British fine-dining classics, 19th-century stationmaster’s cottage-turned-pub The Jigger Inn, and the sizeable Kohler Waters Spa, which has a 20-metre pool.
Explore: Most guests are here for the golf, taking in St Andrews’ famous links along with the hotel’s heathland course The Duke’s. For non-golfers, Duke’s clubhouse terrace has fantastic views over the university town, while the Old Course, closed to play on Sundays, is open for locals to stroll across.
Wow: Standout service should be par for the course at a luxury hotel, but the combination of warm Scottish hospitality and five-star standards make the staff here truly exceptional. They were unfailingly friendly but never overbearing, from the chauffeurs manning shuttles to restaurant serving staff and spa therapists.
Book it: Rooms start at £440 per night April-October or £220 October-March.