Review: Castello di Vicarello

Location: Nestled in the Tuscan region of Maremma, halfway between Rome and Florence, Castello di Vicarello is surrounded by bucolic beauty. The nearby towns and villages of Siena, Montalcino, Castiglione della Pescaia, Montepulciano and Pienza are all accessible by car.

First impressions: It wasn’t Castello di Vicarello’s general manager we met first, but Uva, the hotel’s resident labrador-maremma-cross, who led us to reception with a nonchalant swagger before rolling around in the shade. Uva is something of a local legend at Castello di Vicarello, and sets the tone for the relaxed nature of this 12th-century castle in the hills.

The facts: Castello di Vicarello was in ruins when Italian couple Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti bought it in the 1980s. They spent the next 12 years refurbishing the estate, drawing on their global travels to design each space. The 12 suites have a quirky feel, with vintage furniture, Italian ceramics and Indonesian antiques set alongside contemporary artwork and lighting. Intriguing details in our room, Suite Vicario, include an oversized timber bed frame that requires a stool to get onto; a modern black lacquered sofa; and a Balinese-style bathroom with one of the deepest copper bathtubs I’ve ever seen. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are held in cosy corners in the main house – guests can dine whenever they like, with no need to book. The food is spectacular, made using organic produce from the estate’s vegetable garden. Beyond the main house are two marble infinity pools – one set amid quiet gardens, the other offering wide-ranging views.