Little else surrounds this Tuscan gem than honey-hued fields and slender cypress trees
Location: Little else surrounds Borgo Pignano other than sage and honey-hued fields dotted with slender cypress trees and serried vines. A short drive from the medieval hilltop towns of Volterra and San Gimignano, and about an hour’s drive from Florence, Borgo Pignano’s trump card truly is its setting. Perched atop a hill some 500 metres above sea level, this 750‑acre estate offers some of the most commanding views in Tuscany.
First impressions: A gated dirt track just off the main road signals the start of Borgo Pignano. Our satnav says we have arrived, but it will be another five minutes before we reach the property, our car trundling up the hillside past quiet lakes, wooded copses and a collection of sequestered villas. We check in from a shaded courtyard over chilled glasses of sparkling wine and instantly feel at ease by the hotel’s smiling staff.
The facts: Originally settled during Etruscan times, Borgo Pignano – now privately owned – has undergone several renovations since its inception. The main building, an 18th‑century noble house, has a distinct country house feel, with a library, billiard room, ballroom and lounge. A grand stone staircase leads to 14 rooms and suites – some with original frescoes and all with en suite marble and travertine bathrooms and antique furniture. Additional accommodation is dotted across the estate, including 10 maisonettes, eight individual villas and La Canonica (the Priest’s House), which can be used as a single three‑bedroom house or divided into two separate suites.
Guests can dine at two restaurants: open-air eatery Trattoria Al Fresco, where the menu centres on a wood-fired pizza oven, and green‑Michelin‑starred restaurant Villa Pignano, which celebrates ‘zero kilometre’ cuisine. The latter is a particular highlight, with an impressive tasting menu and a beautiful terrace overlooking the hills of Volterra. The property is perhaps most famous for its infinity-edged pool carved from an ancient limestone quarry – thought to have supplied most of the stone used to build the Etruscan gate Porta all’Arco in Volterra. This year, Borgo Pignano unveiled a second pool to provide a more relaxed area for families. Here, guests will also find a refurbished fitness space and sports area complete with a basketball court and five-a-side football pitch, which doubles as a tennis court.
Other facilities include a spa, yoga studio, bocce (a form of boules) court and riding stables. An eco‑friendly ethos runs through Borgo Pignano and the estate is deeply connected to its surrounds. The property is 70% self-sufficient when it comes to produce, growing its own organic fruits, vegetables and cereals across its vegetable gardens, orchards, olive groves and farm, and harnessing traditional Tuscan techniques to make artisanal breads, pasta, olive oil, honey, jams and toiletries. All of the estate’s heating and hot water is produced in-house using renewable energy.
Ideal for: The wide range of accommodation options and activities at Borgo Pignano makes it ideal for families and larger groups. Guests can enjoy farm tours, painting classes, horse riding lessons, wine tasting and cookery lessons, while little guests will find a woodland playground and nature lab, plus arts and crafts, pizza-making and nature trails. Borgo Pignano feels slightly less polished than other high-end hotels in the region – its interiors are a little retro in parts and the facilities have a more relaxed feel – but for the many guests who return year after year, clearly, that is precisely its appeal.
Explore: If the estate’s orchards, meadows, lakes and woodlands aren’t enough to satisfy guests, a range of excursions beyond the property might. Clients can go truffle hunting between the months of June and November; spot wildlife in the surrounding nature reserves; visit the Chianti and Brunello wine-making regions; or take a city tour of San Gimignano, Siena, Florence or Volterra.
Wow: Traditional Tuscan vistas don’t get better than those at Borgo Pignano. Many argue that the property has the best view in the region and, as I stand on the terrace watching the swifts and swallows soaring and diving against an apricot-hued sky, a pristine patchwork of fields and vineyards unfurled below like a Renaissance painting, it’s impossible to disagree.
Book it: Borgo Pignano offers rooms from €350 per night based on two adults staying in the main villa on a B&B basis.
borgopignano.com