Why now is the time to visit the Spice Isle of the Caribbean
Grenada | July 23, 2024 | Charlotte Brook
Laidback living, vibrant festivities and culture go hand in hand in Grenada, discovers Charlotte Brook
Narrow, winding roads lined with towering nutmeg trees lead us towards verdant peaks cloaked in fine mist, accompanied by the distant symphony of cascading waterfalls and birdsong. “There is a charm about the rural mountains that is just irresistible to me.” It’s clear how much pride our tour guide, Simon, has in his homeland as he drives us deeper into the mountainous heart of Grenada.
His voice is filled with as much awe as I feel seeing the landscape for the first time. We leave the white-sand beaches behind for acres of rolling rainforest terrain, stopping at a viewpoint 600 metres above sea level.
As I gaze at my surroundings, Simon snaps me out of my reverie. “Trust me, it’s not green now,” he laughs. It’s April, so Grenada is in its dry season, which lasts from January until May, but it’s hard to believe that the island could become even more vibrant, as the swirling emerald and jade hues burst with life.
Hiring a local tour guide is undoubtedly the best way to explore Grenada. Simon, owner of Hidden Treasures Hikes & Heritage Tours, knows the best spots to take us to so we can appreciate the island’s beauty beyond our hotel beachfront and get a glimpse into local life.
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Idyllic island
We climb out of the air-conditioned car into the balmy heat of the mid-morning sun and begin our light trek through the rainforest. There are more-strenuous routes travellers can hike on the island, such as the five-hour round-trip to the summit of Mount Saint Catherine, but a meander beneath the dense canopy is ideal for travellers seeking a more leisurely stroll.
The air is thick with an earthy scent tinged with fragrances I can’t quite put my finger on – that is until I learn about the abundant spices that grow here, earning Grenada its nickname, the Spice Isle of the Caribbean.
The island’s volcanic soil is rich with minerals which, paired with the tropical climate, provide the perfect conditions to grow herbs and spices such as nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, ginger and lemongrass, creating a delicious fusion in the humid air.
Grenada’s unique environment also contributes to the superior quality of its cocoa beans. It’s only fitting then that the next stop on our tour is the family-run cocoa farm, L’Esterre Estate.
The farm is run by Bobbie Garbutt and her family, who also own Calabash Hotel, a 30-suite Relais & Châteaux property on the south of the island. When we arrive at the estate, we’re greeted by Aunty Lauren, who ushers us through the plantation house to an airy wraparound terrace. We sip on a glass of iced sorrel and chat about life on the island.
“The world is changing every day, but we still have a sense of community and that’s something we will always hold on to here in Grenada,” says Lauren.
It’s not hard to notice the warmth of the island’s people. It radiates in the ease of conversation with everyone we meet and in the constant honking of horns in greeting as friends and neighbours drive by.
Once refreshed, we wander through the estate and discover the secret to L’Esterre’s chocolate. Despite being made from just two ingredients, it is complex in flavour because the cacao crop is grown among various fruit and spice trees, which impart a distinctive spicy character.
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Spice of life
I soon discover that Grenada’s sobriquet as the Spice Isle of the Caribbean extends far beyond the bountiful spices that grow here.
It also embodies the entire essence of the island, from the blazing heat of the sun and the vibrancy of the streets painted with colour to the passion of the people, all of which come together during the island’s abundant festivities. And UK travellers are keen to join in.
When Grenada commemorated 50 years of independence this February, visitor numbers rose by 29% year on year as travellers flocked to the island to experience first-hand the exultant celebrations.
During my visit, evidence of the festivities still adorns the streets, with decorations proudly displayed and the island’s national colours daubed on almost every visible surface. One thing’s for sure: Grenadians know how to celebrate.
Everyone we meet is filled with the infectious buzz of anticipation for the annual Spicemas festival, which takes place in August.
The week-long event celebrates the African roots of Grenada with a fusion of lively parades, extravagant costumes and a symphony of traditional Soca and calypso music. “It’s my favourite time of the year. It’s a space to completely let go of yourself,” explains Simon.
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Leisurely living
Alongside the irresistible vibrancy of Grenadian culture, the island’s shift into the spotlight is also a result of new high-end product waiting to welcome affluent travellers. In April, the highly anticipated Six Senses La Sagesse opened its doors, marking the brand’s debut in the Caribbean.
The property features 56 pool suites and 15 villas offering one, two and four bedrooms. Silversands Beach House is also new, having opened in February (Reviews, page 90), to join its sister property Silversands Grand Anse.
During my stay at Beach House, I quickly adapt to the easy-going vibe, which I’ve learnt is ingrained in the Grenadian lifestyle. For clients seeking to escape the rush of city life, Grenada is the ideal retreat for body and mind – and Silversands Beach House is a haven of tranquillity.
The cliffside hotel has just 28 suites, each with a private canopied terrace that creates an intimate, exclusive feel. Staff are attentive and always available to hail a golf cart to our rooms or book an excursion to see the island.
We take them up on the latter to spend the day cove-hopping on Silversands’ private boat, Blade. For keen snorkellers, the Molinere Bay Underwater Sculpture Park is a must-visit.
Over time, the statues have become encrusted with corals that attract an array of fish, from yellow‑striped sergeant majors to vibrant purple rasps. I could have happily spent hours swimming among them.
My stay on the island has convinced me it’s about time Grenada receives the recognition it deserves, rather than being overshadowed by (equally beautiful) Saint Lucia, Antigua and Barbados. With luxury product increasing, I’d get your clients’ holidays booked before even more people catch on to this Caribbean gem.
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Dining delights
From local favourites to elevated establishments, your clients will love the island’s array of culinary offerings
Rhodes Restaurant
Local flavours meet fine dining at Calabash Hotel’s evening venue. Expect dishes such as mahi carpaccio, slow‑cooked Caribbean pepper pot stew and lobster risotto – all paired with impeccable service.
Dexter’s Homestyle Restaurant
For authentic Grenadian home‑cooking in a cosy setting, look no further. The simple yet delicious five‑course menu – served in the owner’s home – will leave guests feeling more than satisfied. Make sure to book in advance.
61 West
Set on Grand Anse Beach, this trendy bar is the perfect spot for live music and watching the sunset. The menu spans fresh seafood, burgers and Caribbean classics – and be sure to try the cocktails too.
Asiatique
This modern Asian fusion restaurant at Silversands Grand Anse is a must‑visit. Recommend clients get a spot outside for a relaxed, ambient atmosphere, and that they arrive hungry – the menu is to die for.
Book it: Carrier offers seven nights from £5,670 per person, based on two adults sharing an Ocean View room at Silversands Beach House. Price includes breakfast, premium economy flights from Gatwick, departure fast-track VIP at Gatwick and private transfers, and is based on a departure on October 5, 2024. carrier.co.uk
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Charlotte Brook