Whisky and castles: A long weekend in Scotland

“Take a sip and swirl it around your mouth for 15 seconds,” says Raphael, a whisky connoisseur who is hoping to convert me into a super-fan.

It sounds like a threat, mainly because I’m nervous I’llspit it straight back out.

My entire body shudders as I do what I’ve been told – andI’m sure Raphael quickly realises he’s got his work cut out with me.

My taste buds are on fire and my eyes begin watering. “Andswallow,” he says, after what feels like a lifetime, before quicklyrecommending we take another sip.

I take a deep breath and knock back the remainder of my wee dram of the 25-year-old single malt. I survive, and actually quite enjoy it.And the swishing of spirits around my mouth is the reason why, according toRaphael, the lingering flavours in my mouth mean I’ve become desensitised tothe 49.5% proof alcohol.

If you haven’t come to Scotland for the stunning scenery orthe golf, then you’vemost likely ventured here to sample someofthe world’s best whiskies. Scotland is the land of distilleries; no one knowswhisky like kilt-wearing (OK, they don’t have to be wearing kilts) Scots.

I embarked on a tasting of five rare andoldlimited-edition whiskies at The Whisky Experience in Kirkoswald on the westerncoast.

By the end of the tasting I was more than a little lightheaded: full of whisky knowledge – and of actual whisky. The experience can be booked at adrattray.com and costs £45.

The Whisky Experience is just 45 minutes from my home forthe weekend, Glenapp Castle, a place so grand I feel like the Queen of Scots.

This beautiful 147-year-old castle, located in Ballantrae,Ayrshire, makes an impression straight away. I’d arrived the evening before inthe dark and the long tree-lined driveway, surrounded by a forest, made for anenchanting and fairytale-like arrival.

The impression of a fantasy land is reinforced further by the towering turrets and trees climbing up the building’s facade.

There’s no reception area as such; instead, there’s a homely entrance with lines of wellies and warm jackets for guests to use on hikes and walks ofthe nearby glens and forests (the largest forest in British is less than anhour away in Galloway).I sign the guestbook, spotting that everyone else stayingin the 17-suite castle is from the US on a golfing tour.

Not only is this place like somethingout of a Disneymovie, it’s also steeped in history. In 1944 Winston Churchill stayed atGlenapp and held discussions about plans for the D-Day landings.

The suites are all huge, with buckets of character andcharm. Think antique furniture and oil-painted portraits and you’re on theright track. Mine was oneof the most romantic I’ve ever stayed in, with a giantfour-poster bed with deep red curtains draped across the wooden beams surrounding it.

The lounge area, complete with the original fireplace, proved the perfect place to enjoy a mid-afternoon glass of champagne.

The highlight of Glenapp is the grounds the castle sits within – with 36 acres to explore. From the stunning azalea pond to the walled garden featuring a Victoria glasshouse and tea room (serving updelicious homemade cakes), this place is simply beautiful.

Make use of the wellies on offer and head to the nearby glenfor a walk along the stream, or head a little farther to the coast for views ofthe Mull of Kintyre and of nearby Ailsa Craig, a tiny island which can also be visited on a boat trip organised by Glenapp.

As a member of the Relais & Chateaux association, the castle’s food is just as good as you’d expect. Breakfast was a particularhighlight and it would be remiss not to order the Scottish smoked salmon.

How to get to Glenapp Castle: The nearest airport is Prestwick but flights from English airports aren’t great. Instead, fly into Glasgow and enjoy the extremely scenic hour-and-a-half’s drive.

Book it: Rooms start from £295 per night on a bed-and-breakfast basis.