The hidden treasures of the Maldives

Gazing down through the window of the seaplane – which isnoisy, sticky and exhilarating – I spy a collection of Maldivian islands andreefs looking like giant stepping stones spread out across the crystal-clearwaters of the Indian Ocean.

The tiny plane is being tossed about by shifting ocean windsand low cloud when the co-pilot turns to us, grinning, and flashes his openpalms twice to indicate that we have 20-minutes until landing.

The roar of the engine, the heat, the sun streaming inthrough the windows and the vast carpet of blue beneath us – it’s all quiteoverwhelming. I turn to my girlfriend to see if she’s as astonished by thewhole thing as I am. She’s fast asleep.

Many people head to the Maldives with the intention ofstaying in one place (and usually it’s a padded sunlounger with a glass ofcrisp, pale rosé in hand); after all, this place is renowned as a haven forvisitors seeking relaxation and tranquillity. But with so many islands in suchclose proximity of one another, it would be a shame not to take a hop, skip anda jump and go island-hopping.

Lux South Ari Atoll

Our Maldivian odyssey was six days long –just enough time to cram in visits to three island resorts. Our first stop wasLux South Ari Atoll in the west of the almost rectangular archipelago. A lineof smiling, waving staff greeted us on the jetty as we arrived, loadedus onto a buggy and escorted us to our beach villa.

These secluded properties offer a slice of luxury beachliving. Tucked away among screw pines and coconut trees, each villa has its ownlittle stretch of sand leading out to the sea. Large screens in front of the bed open to reveal stunning views of the expansive oceanand neighbouring islands. The perfect way to start your day in this specialpart of the world.

Lux certainly won’t disappoint affluent travellers. As wellas transporting you to higher plains of rest and relaxation, it’s theunexpected personal touches that will make you feel as if you’ve pitched up on a magical island. You may be ambling towards Lagoon Bar – abeachfront spot serving up delicious seafood to the sound of reggae fusiontunes – and spy a bottle by the side of the path with a message offering you afree spa treatment or bottle of wine. Or you could have just finished a morningyoga session when, on the way back to your villa, an ice cream cart pops up outof nowhere to give you gelato made on the island. You could even stumble upon abowl of fresh coconut shavings on your way to the Tree of Wishes – a signature across allLux properties.

Inspired by Japan’s ancient Tanabata festival, wishing treesand Brazilian Bonfim wish ribbons, the Tree of Wishes is where guests go tomake a wish as they place a ribbon around a branch with their initials writtenon. At the end of the year, one ribbon is picked and its owner wins a freeholiday.

Hidden treasures are everywhere at Lux, and if this allsounds a bit like a fairytale, that’s because it is. At the centre of it alllies Lux Café, a tranquil hub where groups meet to go snorkelling, paddleboarding, diving with whale sharks or kite-surfing. It’s also a great spot tosample some home-roasted coffee or try your hand at latte art – a skill thatstill eludes me despite patient tuition. While the experts were sculpting foamy3D teddy bears, I struggled with a love heart.

As night falls, head to Umami for sensational sushi and livemusic before catching a buggy to Beach Rouge, where DJs play ambient music andwaiters bring round cocktails until bedtime. Simply heavenly, it was trickyleaving our magical paradise.

FInolhu Baa Atoll

But leave we did. And after a 30-minute seaplane journey wearrived at Finolhu Baa Atoll, where once again we received a warm andenthusiastic welcome – the kind you’d expect only a famous face to receive.

Part of the Small Maldives Island Co, Finolhu is anuber-cool island, with pastel signs pointing to Sunset Boulevard and Route 66,smooth funk music playing and spa rooms in the Cove Club named after famous divas.Everything has a 1970s LA vibe to it, from the outdoor gym by Palm Beach to thegiant inflatables in the pool.

The recently opened super-trendy 1 Oak Beach Club(sister to the ones in Las Vegas and New York) acts as the nucleus fornight-time activities, with regular themed parties, DJ nights andentertainment. With the champagne flowing and the sun setting, guests can enjoyfire-dancing performances, live bands and remarkable aerial silk acts.

Of the resort’s first-class eateries, one in particularstands out: the Fish and Crab Shack. The restaurant can be found at the end ofa 15-minute walk along a beautiful sandspit – or, for those hell-bent onexerting as little energy as possible, it is a short Dhoni ride across thelagoon.

The local seafood is exquisite, the service is friendly andhelpful and the surroundings are breathtaking. We opted to walk to the shack,which appears on the horizon like an oasis. Go for a long lunch and be sure toorder the soft-shell crab tacos – you will not be disappointed.

For dinner, head to Kanusan for Asian cuisine, theatricalcooking techniques from the visible kitchen, and views spreading out across theocean. The atmosphere is one of pure calm, and when they start bringing out thetruffle and wagyu beef, fresh tuna tartare and the steamed snapper, prepare forparadise.

A quick stop at 1 Oak for a nightcap and to catch the lastof the entertainment and it’s back to our Lagoon Villa to soak up the sounds ofthe sea on our private sundeck. The ocean-access villas combine classic luxurydesign with a modern, trendy twist. The juxtaposition really works – onentering, you’ll find yourself switching on a crystal chandelier and turning upthe music on retro Marshall speakers.

Amilla Fushi

The final destination on our three-resort hop was AmillaFushi, also in Baa Atoll, and sister property to Finolhu. Amilla is the sort ofdestination I imagine royalty choosing when they fancy a Maldivian jaunt.

Guests at each villa are allocated a katheeb – essentially abutler – who is on call 24/7. They remain behind the scenes, making sure youwant for nothing during your stay. Call them from the mobile phone you’re givenon arrival to help arrange meals, excursions, activities for kids and spatreatments (an absolute must). The property really is staggeringlybeautiful. Lush forest and silky white sand surround the island, and anetwork of raised piers leads you to the Ocean Reef Houses, which each haveprivate pools and direct ocean access. Our katheeb kindly brought us somesnorkel equipment, and we spent a happy hour or so exploring the varied oceanlife in our ‘back garden’.

Inside, the design of these gorgeous open-plan houses isminimal and immaculate, with shelves lined with Aesop products and a monsoonshower I could have stayed in for a week.

Our katheeb was kept busy. He arranged for us to have atennis lesson with a professional coach; a personal training session at thegym; a photoshoot with the hugely talented and interesting photographer MunkoAli, at Shutterfish photography studios; all our meals; and a cheese and winepairing with expert sommelier (and all-round wonderful person) Beatrice.

For a showstopper of an evening, book a table at Amilla’ssignature restaurant Feeling Koi, an overwater establishment serving Japanesecuisine with Latin influences. Get yourself to the beach for pre-dinnercocktails and ready yourself for some spectacular views at sunset.

Amilla Fushi translates to ‘my island home’, and its ethosis very much geared towards making high-end clients feel comfortable and lookedafter without any sense of pretentiousness. In this, it is incrediblysuccessful. I only wish my actual real-life home even slightly resembled myisland home.

Our island-hopping adventure exploring three very differentresorts had come to an end. Having discovered the diversity and wide variety ofofferings inthe Maldives, I would certainly go island-hopping again, were I ever fortunateenough to return.

BOOK IT

Prices for a Beach Villa at LUX* South Ari Atoll start from$840 in low season on a bed and breakfast basis.

Beach Villa accommodation at Finolhu starts from $850 pernight including breakfast, excluding tax and service.

Ocean Reef Houses at Amilla Fushi start from $1,050 pernight including breakfast, excluding tax and service.