The heart of India: Getting under the skin of the Golden Triangle

Inspiring itineraries

Our rickshaw experience marks the start of a rousing week-long escapade through India with Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, which operates two itineraries in the country as part of its Spectacular Journeys of the World collection. But simple river cruises these are not – both programmes combine experience-rich land tours that traverse some of India’s most famed regions with a sailing on the Ganges, where the line’s signature five-star service comes to the forefront.

It’s no surprise that both itineraries feature a stay in Agra, the serene city home to the exquisite Taj Mahal. As a first-time visitor to India, catching a glimpse of this illustrious temple is what I’m most looking forward to – and it doesn’t disappoint. As we approach, I spy the rounded ivory turrets peeking over the grounds’ arched entryway, and I feel a sense of awe rush over me. Passing through the entrance, the full, unadulterated wonder of the Taj is laid out in front of us, and its beauty and the love it symbolises is simply mesmerising.

We return for a sunrise visit the following morning, where any hints of tiredness from our 4am wake-up call are swept away by the deserted scene that greets us. I wander the empty grounds in a dreamlike state, admiring the ornate patterns carved into the delicate marble and marvelling at the pristine condition it retains almost 400 years on from construction. The sky may be too hazy for us to actually see the sun come up, but I don’t mind – the sheer magic of this place is undeniable, even without the sun’s rays.

Lavish living

Some time later, golf buggies ferry us back to our current lodgings, The Oberoi Amarvilas. With 12 opulent properties scattered across India, Oberoi’s hotels are an obvious choice for affluent visitors to India and Uniworld’s default accommodation option. Amarvilas is the second Oberoi we check into, following a one-night stay in the stylish New Delhi city pad that was our first port of call. The tranquillity of Amarvilas is welcomed, and I relish the opportunity to laze by the pool, admiring the grandeur of the Taj in the background.

I leave knowing that whatever awaits us in our next stop of Jaipur will need to be pretty special to beat the stay I’ve just had – and pretty special it is. Upon our arrival at The Oberoi Rajvilas, flower petals rain down on us, mini parasols are thrust into our hands and we’re swiftly whisked across the sprawling grounds to our rooms.

All of the Oberoi properties we visit have a unique identity, which makes each stay distinctive – but it’s this first night at Rajvilas that cements the hotel as my top pick. When I stroll back towards the main hotel building later that evening for dinner, I pause for a minute to watch the resident peacocks pick their route across the grass and to listen to birds calling in the distance. We’re dining alfresco tonight, and colourful scarves are placed around our necks before we’re ushered into a courtyard illuminated by lanterns and ornate, flame-lit torches that tower overhead. A small band presides over our dining set-up, playing beguiling music to which a young dancer twists and turns in the middle of the patio. And she’s not the only one showcasing her skills – nestled to the side of our tables, a lady sits atop a blanket, kneading dough before placing it in the small kiln in front of her. The product of her labour is later served to our table as part of a lavish spread, the soft bread a perfect accompaniment to the sumptuous curries we indulge in.

As the evening draws to a close, everyone takes to the makeshift stage to dance, losing themselves in the sound of the music. I stop briefly to take in the pure, undeniable joy this moment brings, the togetherness brought about by good music, food and people impossible to ignore.

Enriching experiences

The next part of the trip sees us make the two-hour hop from Jaipur to Kolkata, where we board Uniworld’s 28-suite ship Ganges Voyager II. During our three-night sailing, we spend the days exploring villages and marvelling at their intricate temples, and the evenings sharing stories from our adventures or watching local bands play on the Sun Deck.

On our last day, we return to Kolkata to see more of what we’re told is the cultural capital of India. After passing St John’s Church, the city’s oldest Anglican church, standing in awe at the Victoria Memorial and exploring the traditional potters’ corner, we make a stop that turns out to be one of my standout memories from the whole trip.

Hidden down an alleyway, a door opens onto a small courtyard, where we’re ushered inside by two smiling ladies all too excited to welcome us. This is a school founded by Calcutta Rescue, a charity that works to improve the lives of the city’s poorest residents. I look around, captivated by the walls blanketed by vibrant murals showing inspiring messages, urging the children to ‘think before you repeat’ and to remember ‘self-care is important’. We get to observe a few lessons and chat to the students, and my heart almost bursts when we enter a class of five-year-olds who trip over each other to greet us, clearly eager to show off their English, joyful smiles spread across their faces.

The ladies who guide us through the building tell us the history of the centre, which has been operating for more than 40 years, giving underprivileged children their best shot at success. I find myself unable to move on from the ‘wall of fame’, where I read about former students who have gone on to make careers in everything from pharmaceuticals to hospitality. The pride that exudes from the staff and students really moves me, and I leave knowing that this hub of positivity and opportunity will remain in my mind for a long time.

Our final evening passes by in a blur of eating, drinking and laughing, and, before I know it, we’re disembarking the ship and heading to the airport, the magic of India soon to be a memory. But what a memory it is – I came here expecting to be most wowed by the captivating landmarks and illustrious history, but what will remain etched into my heart is the remarkable people I’ve met and the life-affirming experience I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy.

Book it: Uniworld’s 12-night India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges itinerary starts at £6,249 per person based on two sharing. This includes five nights in Oberoi hotels, seven nights’ all-inclusive on the Ganges Voyager II, all activities, flights and transfers.

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