The hidden treasures of the Maldives
Maldives | December 14, 2017
Island hop your way around paradise
Don’t stay in one place, urges George Clode as he hops his way around three Maldivian islands
Gazing down through the window of the seaplane – which is
noisy, sticky and exhilarating – I spy a collection of Maldivian islands and
reefs looking like giant stepping stones spread out across the crystal-clear
waters of the Indian Ocean.
The tiny plane is being tossed about by shifting ocean winds
and low cloud when the co-pilot turns to us, grinning, and flashes his open
palms twice to indicate that we have 20-minutes until landing.
The roar of the engine, the heat, the sun streaming in
through the windows and the vast carpet of blue beneath us – it’s all quite
overwhelming. I turn to my girlfriend to see if she’s as astonished by the
whole thing as I am. She’s fast asleep.
Many people head to the Maldives with the intention of staying in one place (and usually it’s a padded sunlounger with a glass of crisp, pale rosé in hand); after all, this place is renowned as a haven for visitors seeking relaxation and tranquillity. But with so many islands in such close proximity of one another, it would be a shame not to take a hop, skip and a jump and go island-hopping.
Lux South Ari Atoll
Our Maldivian odyssey was six days long
–
just enough time to cram in visits to three island resorts. Our first stop was
Lux South Ari Atoll in the west of the almost rectangular archipelago. A line
of smiling, waving staff greeted us on the jetty as
we arrived, loaded
us onto a buggy and escorted us to our beach villa.
These secluded properties offer a slice of luxury beach living. Tucked away among screw pines and coconut trees, each villa has its own little stretch of sand leading out to the sea. Large screens in front of the bed open to reveal stunning views of the expansive ocean and neighbouring islands. The perfect way to start your day in this special part of the world.
Lux certainly won’t disappoint affluent travellers. As well as transporting you to higher plains of rest and relaxation, it’s the unexpected personal touches that will make you feel as if you’ve pitched up on a magical island. You may be ambling towards Lagoon Bar – a beachfront spot serving up delicious seafood to the sound of reggae fusion tunes – and spy a bottle by the side of the path with a message offering you a free spa treatment or bottle of wine. Or you could have just finished a morning yoga session when, on the way back to your villa, an ice cream cart pops up out of nowhere to give you gelato made on the island. You could even stumble upon a bowl of fresh coconut shavings on your way to the Tree of Wishes – a signature across all Lux properties.
Inspired by Japan’s ancient Tanabata festival, wishing trees
and Brazilian Bonfim wish ribbons, the Tree of Wishes is where guests go to
make a wish as they place a ribbon around a branch with their initials written
on. At the end of the year, one ribbon is picked and its owner wins a free
holiday.
Hidden treasures are everywhere at Lux, and if this all
sounds a bit like a fairytale, that’s because it is. At the centre of it all
lies Lux Café, a tranquil hub where groups meet to go snorkelling, paddle
boarding, diving with whale sharks or kite-surfing. It’s also a great spot to
sample some home-roasted coffee or try your hand at latte art – a skill that
still eludes me despite patient tuition. While the experts were sculpting foamy
3D teddy bears,
I struggled with a love heart.
As night falls, head to Umami for sensational sushi and live
music before catching a buggy to Beach Rouge, where DJs play ambient music and
waiters bring round cocktails until bedtime. Simply heavenly, it was tricky
leaving our magical paradise.
FInolhu Baa Atoll
But leave we did. And after a 30-minute seaplane journey we
arrived at Finolhu
Baa Atoll, where once again we received a warm and
enthusiastic welcome – the kind you’d expect only a famous face to receive.
Part of the Small Maldives Island Co, Finolhu is an
uber-cool island, with pastel signs pointing to Sunset Boulevard and Route 66,
smooth funk music playing
and spa rooms in the Cove Club named after famous divas.
Everything has a 1970s LA vibe to it, from the outdoor gym by Palm Beach to the
giant inflatables in the pool.
The recently opened super-trendy
1 Oak Beach Club
(sister to the ones in Las Vegas and New York) acts as the nucleus for
night-time activities, with regular themed parties, DJ nights and
entertainment. With the champagne flowing and the sun setting, guests can enjoy
fire-dancing performances, live bands and remarkable aerial silk acts.
Of the resort’s first-class eateries, one in particular
stands out: the Fish and Crab Shack. The restaurant can be found at the end of
a 15-minute walk along a beautiful sandspit – or, for those hell-bent on
exerting as little energy as possible, it
is a short Dhoni ride across the
lagoon.
The local seafood is exquisite, the service is friendly and
helpful and the surroundings are breathtaking. We opted to walk to the shack,
which appears on the horizon like an oasis. Go for a long lunch and be sure to
order the soft-shell crab tacos – you will not be disappointed.
For dinner, head to Kanusan for Asian cuisine, theatrical
cooking techniques from the visible kitchen, and views spreading out across the
ocean. The atmosphere is one of pure calm, and when they start bringing out the
truffle and wagyu beef, fresh tuna tartare and the steamed snapper, prepare for
paradise.
A quick stop at 1 Oak for a nightcap and to catch the last
of the entertainment and it’s back to our Lagoon Villa to soak up the sounds of
the sea on our private sundeck. The ocean-access villas combine classic luxury
design with a modern, trendy twist. The juxtaposition really works – on
entering, you’ll find yourself switching on a crystal chandelier and turning up
the music on retro Marshall speakers.
Amilla Fushi
The final destination on our three-resort hop was Amilla
Fushi, also in Baa Atoll, and sister property to Finolhu. Amilla is the sort of
destination I imagine royalty choosing when they fancy a Maldivian jaunt.
Guests at each villa are allocated a katheeb – essentially a
butler – who is on call 24/7. They remain behind the scenes, making sure you
want for nothing during your stay. Call them from the mobile phone you’re given
on arrival to help arrange meals, excursions, activities for kids and spa
treatments (an absolute must).
The property really is staggeringly
beautiful. Lush forest and silky white
sand surround the island, and a
network of raised piers leads you to the Ocean Reef Houses, which each have
private pools and direct ocean access. Our katheeb kindly brought us some
snorkel equipment, and we spent a happy hour or so exploring the varied ocean
life in our ‘back garden’.
Inside, the design of these gorgeous open-plan houses is
minimal and immaculate, with shelves lined with Aesop products and a monsoon
shower I could have stayed in for a week.
Our katheeb was kept busy. He arranged for us to have a
tennis lesson with a professional coach; a personal training session at the
gym; a photoshoot with the hugely talented and interesting photographer Munko
Ali, at Shutterfish photography studios; all our meals; and a cheese and wine
pairing with expert sommelier (and all-round wonderful person) Beatrice.
For a showstopper of an evening, book a table at Amilla’s
signature restaurant Feeling Koi, an overwater establishment serving Japanese
cuisine with Latin influences. Get yourself to the beach for pre-dinner
cocktails and ready yourself for some spectacular views at sunset.
Amilla Fushi translates to ‘my island home’, and its ethos
is very much geared towards making high-end clients feel comfortable and looked
after without any sense of pretentiousness. In this,
it is incredibly
successful. I only wish my actual real-life home even slightly resembled my
island home.
Our island-hopping adventure exploring three very different
resorts had come to an end. Having discovered the diversity and wide variety of
offerings
in
the Maldives, I would certainly go island-hopping again, were I ever fortunate
enough to return.
BOOK IT
Prices for a Beach Villa at LUX* South Ari Atoll start from
$840 in low season on a bed and breakfast basis.
Beach Villa accommodation at Finolhu starts from $850 per night including breakfast, excluding tax and service.
Ocean Reef Houses at Amilla Fushi start from $1,050 per
night including breakfast, excluding tax and service.