Antigua’s move on to the UK’s green list has green-lit my trip at the last moment, and almost before I can blink I’ve swapped summer rain in London for the balmy charm of the Caribbean.

But not everything happens overnight. Tamarind Hills itself, perched on a slope between two beautiful beaches on the island’s southwest coast, has been a longer labour of love.

Ambitious plans

These developments are just the start, however, according to managing director Poonam Agarwalla. She pulls out a comprehensive design map and talks me through the plans. “We'll have tennis courts, a bar, green roofs, fruit trees – banana, avocado, fig – and walkways around the beach,” she says.

“The wellness centre will have a series of water bodies and separate treatment rooms with a focus on natural, organic ingredients, and we want there to be an almost villagey atmosphere around the restaurant and beach area. It’ll be stunning.”

I don’t doubt it. It might still be a work in progress, but it’s not hard to see the potential here as I bathe in the calm, lagoon-like waters of the beach, the pearly-white shore deserted but for the odd, wandering soul discovering this place before it hits the mainstream.

Laid-back luxury

It’s not only Tamarind Hills that sweeps me off my feet. Next, I’m whisked over to Hammock Cove, a high-end all-inclusive that opened in December 2019 on the east coast featuring 42 villas, each with their own private, infinity-edge plunge pool and butler.

The property is owned by Elite Island Resorts (parent of the famous St James’s Club) and I’m charmed from the moment I walk into the elegant reception and am handed a cocktail to sip during check-in. It’s a short buggy ride to my villa, which boasts a huge, wood-floored bedroom, sparkling bathroom (with novel double shower) and spacious terrace with sunbeds, swing and ocean-view pool.

Later, I venture to the Lighthouse restaurant, the resort’s fine-dining venue, where squid ink risotto (so rich it’s almost chocolatey) is followed by tender duck breast. The following day, I sample Irina’s, a more casual spot that majors on poached-egg breakfasts, fresh local fish, salads and burgers.

But it’s the beach that really bewitches, with an elegant boardwalk above an aqua lagoon, a cocktail shack rustling up whatever you ask for (there’s no menu), and complimentary kayaks and stand-up paddleboards dotting the sand.

I sit for several hours gazing over the calm, glittering water, feeling uncharacteristically zen as a waiter tops up my glass and brings jerk chicken to my sunbed, leaving me more than a little reluctant to tear myself away.

Island exploration

But exploring this island is a must. One of my highlights is a sailing lesson with the National Sailing Academy, where I learn how to tack as we sail around the bay in a dainty yacht, water splashing up from the sides in the choppier sections as the boat tips and slants (from £35 for a 90-minute private lesson).

We visit the Unesco-listed Nelson’s Dockyard, located in the nearby English Harbour, and learn how the British navy used the sheltered facility to protect and repair its ships from 1725 to 1889. Colonial buildings in red brick, honeyed stone and slatted white wood dot the area, fringing the water’s edge and laced with colourful fruit trees. A museum reveals the darker side of this period, telling the stories of some of the hundreds of enslaved Africans who were brought to the island to construct the dockyard and work for the navy.

At nearby Shirley Heights, famous for its panoramic views, I witness preparations for the sunset fiesta, when locals and visitors flock to dance along to a live steel band every Thursday and Sunday evening. Pre-booking a table is now essential given Covid restrictions, and currently a curfew is in place from 11pm.

Getting adventurous

Active clients can climb a series of steep, scenic trails through the rainforest to reach mountain-view lookouts in Wallings Nature Reserve, while those looking for authentic island life can venture into St John’s. Here streets are lined with dishevelled houses in shades of lemon, magenta and cobalt, music blasts from shopfront speakers and stalls sell giant yellowfin tuna at the rather pungent fish market.

But the real standout is an ‘Xtreme Circumnavigation’ boat trip with Adventure Antigua, where we circle the island in a high-speed boat (from $170 per person for the day). Adrenaline pumping, we ride waves that sometimes reach six feet high, stopping at calmer bays along the way to swim, snorkel and sunbathe on white-sand, picture-perfect beaches that belong on a postcard.

As we pass Hodges Bay, Blue Waters and Jumby Bay – where the swankiest residence leads in at $16,500 a night – I’m left wanting a little more time to explore the island’s slew of elegant properties. But I console myself with dreams of my return – not least to see Tamarind Hills in all its sparkling glory, and to dig a little deeper into this scenic isle that blends landscapes, culture, history and a sizeable dose of luxury to enchanting effect.

Book it: One-bedroom Ocean View Suites at Tamarind Hills start at $403 per night, room-only. At Hammock Cove, rates start at £385 per person per night on an all-inclusive basis, staying in a Waterview Villa.

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